Selecting a Guide for the Climb

Kilimanjaro is located in a Tanzanian National Park. It is required to have a Tanzanian guide to climb Kilimanjaro. The trip up is usually done expedition-style with porters carrying the camping and cooking equipment, making the meals, leading the way and other guidance.

We researched several guides and tour operators for this climb. We also considered going on our own, meaning getting to Tanzania and hiring guides there. We researched the various routes up the mountain, and the number of days each operator took for the climb. There are several other factors considered, including experience, costs, trip ethics, and sustainable practices.

In the end, we selected Mountain Madness, founded by the late mountaineer Scott Fischer, for our trip guide and organizers. They are based out of Seattle, and have very good safety record, and success rates for getting to the top. (http://www.mountainmadness.com/)

Our trip begins by arriving in Arusha, Tanzania on February 9. We will be climbing via the Shira Plateau/ Western Breach route. This route will take 10 days to the summit. Here's the climbing schedule:

Day 1: Meet in Arusha, Tanzania
Day 2: Camp at base of Kilimanjaro
Day 3: Montane Forest (7,000 to 9,000 ft)
Day 4: Shira Plateau (11,500 ft)
Day 5: Fischer Camp (12,300 ft)
Day 6: Lava Tower (14,300 ft)
Day 7: Arrow Glacier (15,300 ft) Acclimatization Day.
Day 8: Summit Crater Camp (18,500 ft)
Day 9: SUMMIT DAY (19,340 ft), then descend to Mweka Camp (10,500 ft)
Day 10: Continue descent to Moivaro, Arusha

The climbing will get tough above 15,000 ft due to the low atmospheric pressure at those altitudes. The day before we summit will probably be the hardest because they estimate that it will take between 7 and 9 hours to hike 1.6 miles (and go up 3,000 ft). Summit day will be a short hike up, celebrate being on top, and then descend almost 9,000 ft in elevation, which will be a very long day. The next day, we finish descending, and then relax for a day or so in Arusha (we get to take showers after 10 days!).

After Kili, we will spend some time doing a few safari trips out to Ngorongoro Crater and the Serengeti. I have spent so much time researching and thinking about the climb that I don't have a clear idea of what we will be doing for the safari portion. I'll get to it sooner or later.

Altitude Sickness

AMS is caused by significantly decreased air pressure at elevation. The atmosphere at higher elevations contains the same levels of oxygen as at sea level (about 20%), but the air pressure decreases as the elevation increases to the extent that the air pressure at the top of Kilimanjaro is about 40% to 50% less than air pressure at sea level. The result is that when you inhale at higher elevations, it is much harder to fill your lungs because the atmosphere is not pushing as much air into them.

The symptoms of mild AMS are mild headache (that can be helped by aspirin or ibuprofen), slight nausea, dizziness, loss of appetite, and fatigue. Moderate AMS presents with severe headache that is not relieved by aspirin or ibuprofen, persistent vomiting, and increased fatigue. If a climber gets to this point, it is time to seriously consider stopping to acclimatize, or even descending. If not checked, the next step is severe AMS, which is a life threatening emergency condition.

Severe AMS presents with changes in consciousness and mental status, inability to walk straight, severe fatigue and shortness of breath even at rest, and possible cyanotic appearance. Severe AMS can lead to High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) which is an accumulation of fluid around the lungs, or High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) which is an accumulation of fluid around the brain. NOT good things! If it gets this far, the victim must immediately descend at least 2,000 to 4,000 ft, and possibly require evacuation for medical treatment.

The good news is that the body can adapt to these changes. When first encountered, the climber will be taking faster, deeper breathes to try to catch up to the lower air pressure. Acclimatization will occur if given time. The body will compensate for the changes, including increasing red blood cell production, and rebalancing the pH of the blood.

What to do to avoid AMS? The best thing to do is prevent AMS from taking hold. We have been told the best things to do are:
Go Slow.
Stay Hydrated.
Eat Well.
Take a rest day on the way up.
Good Conditioning helps.

Some people don't consider potential life threatening conditions a necessary part of their vacation. We don't either. That's why we are training, training, training......